The static hop
Starting from a trackstand position, the static hop or wheel-transfer is very useful in situations where room is minimal and when the front wheel is resting on top of an edge.
A very versatile technique
Hannes Herrmann hangs to his front wheel before a static hop.
Nicolas Vuillermot about to compress both tyres.
It can be used on any weird shapes to precisely position your rear wheel one step higher, exactly in place of your front wheel or at the same level.
Use the initial vertical trackstand to focus on placing your front wheel correctly for optimum grip and impulse. Your center of mass will hardly move during the whole jump, hence the name of that technique.
Body language and tyre compression are the key drivers as there is no pedal kick involved in this technique.
The static hop is easier to perform at an angle of about 45 degree with respect to the obstacle, with your lazy foot facing the obstacle.
Practice at a slight angle
Surging to back wheel with a static hop.
Janos Boudet secures his front wheel.
Balance with the front wheel standing on top of an edge or a kerb. You should find your balance with your shoulders leaning beyond the handlebars, with most of your weight supported on the
front wheel and firmly pressing the tyre onto the obstacle. Your head should be almost over the front hub.
Keep the brakes completely locked at all times. When you are ready, point your feet and stretch your legs to gain extra height on top of the pedals.
Then flex your ankles and arms to compress both tyres and spring up immediately into a full extension boosted by a firm push-up from your arms, slightly sideways.
The tyres will bounce back from the compression and sum up to your upward motion. At the very end of the jump impulse, pull on the handlebars to lift the bike up and sideways onto the
obstacle, and tuck your knees to let the rear wheel take-off.
You should finish the weight transfer with your arms fully stretched, holding the bike up in front of you and about to land the rear wheel on top of the obstacle.
Land as softly as you can, with your hips right over the rear wheel. From there, move up to a more comfortable position on the pedals with a few adjustment hops on the rear wheel.
Get ready for your next move.
Click on any photo and use the scroll-wheel to animate the move.
A regular static hop
1° Balance with your front wheel standing on top of an edge. You should find your balance with your shoulders leaning beyond the handlebars.
2° Keep the brakes completely locked at all times. Then point your feet and stretch your legs to gain extra height on top of the pedals.
3° Then flex your ankles and arms to let your torso drop, firm up the arms to compress both tyres on the obstacle.
4° Spring up immediately into a full extension boosted by a firm push-up from your arms, slightly sideways.
5° At the very end of your jump impulse, the tyres bounce back from the compression, pull on the handlebars to lift the bike up and sideways.
6° You should finish the weight transfer with your arms fully stretched, holding the bike up in front of you to land the rear wheel.
Watch this move in slow-motion
Boosting your static hop
Kenny is ready to perform a firm push-up.
Vincent Hermance locks his front wheel over an edge.
To boost your impulse, use the spring of both your legs and arms combined with the bouncing effect of the tyres.
If the obstacle is wide enough to support both wheels, you can lean further over the obstacle during the push-up and swing the bike over the obstacle while maintaining the front wheel fairly low.
This will be smoother and less demanding than pulling up the whole bike in mid-air for nothing. You will also be able to secure both wheels earlier on the obstacle.
Choose your landing strategy in line with your plans for the next move.